Back in 2005 the BDC in Perth, WA organised
the "Across Australia Tour" from Perth to
Terrigal in NSW, about 6000kms. which was billed as
one of the last great road trips in the World. My co-driver,
navigator Jenny who is also my long suffering wife,
well what Bentley tragics wife is not, and myself were
lucky enough to participate and we completed that event.
At the euphoric final celebratory dinner and probably
fueled by alcohol, that WA stalwart Dennis Lingane declared,
"its the last frontier and one of the most challenging
road adventures as yet unexplored by the Bentley boys!!!"
proposing 2009 as ideal timing.
There were 20 proper cars on the tour and 5 of those
WOs were from Down Under, we had one 3 litre, a 3/4.5
litre and three 4.5 litres dating from 1925 to 1929.
All Australasian cars finished the tour without major
mishaps or major mechanical issues and only one WO failed
to finish a 4/8 litre... so WO cannot be blamed as it
was not a standard Cricklewood designed or manufactured
car! Incidentally, four modern Derby Bentleys from the
14 that started did not make the finish line, a real
standout result for the reliability of our vintage machines.
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Start |
Getting to the start in Canada was
the easy bit, just pack our car in a container in Brisbane
and pick her up in Vancouver, the tour started in a
similar way, nice welcome dinner, Canadian CMP Police,
TV and newspapers, politicians, all wishing us bon-voyage.
A few reasonably easy days of "only 200 plus miles"
during the first week through all the fantastic scenery
that British Columbia has to offer, with overnight stays
at 5 star hotels in Whistler, Salmon Arm, Lake Loise
and Jasper and a rest day Banff, with nice sunny summer
days thrown in, all luring us into a false sense of
complacency... this is easy, no worries, cars all going
well, only 7000 kms to go, no worries!
The Glazier Highway to Jasper and Rogers pass were really
spectacular but the temperature was dropping to just
a few degrees as we headed North, the sun was hiding
and the to-date wonderful roads were deteriorating too.
But no worries!! Jasper brought a very cold start and
the "anti freeze" was definitely needed as
hoses on our car started to weep in sympathy with us.
We headed North into Alberta, through the towns of Grande
Cache and Grande Praire, home to the annual stampede,
a big event in this the largest city in NW Alberta,
with its 47,000 hardy souls. It was also the last major
stop before our arrival in Dawson Creek BC, and the
famous mile "0" of the "Alaska Highway",
our route North and a major 1671 mile wartime achievement,
linking the USA and Canada with the Arctic and creating
a supply route to its Russian Allies in WW2. The construction
of this magnificent road was completed in just 8 months
by approx 400 officers, 11,000 US soldiers and over
7500 US civilians who used 11,000 pieces of machinery
in the appaling winter conditions, through a mainly
unmapped and extremely harsh environment, often in 40deg
below conditions... as the Bentleys burbled North we
had a small taste of minus 2 degrees in the mountains
and our admiration for this amazing engineering feat
was much enhanced by the ice on our car and the start
of frostbite on our fingers!
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Adrian & Jenny Cook |
WOB 29... resting with
John Grants Derby as backdrop |
Jenny driving with a
BC skifield as the backdrop!
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Nugget resort Watson lake,
no ensuites here, not quite 5-star! |
The well-used tour luggage van |
Raining and long traffic free road |
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Dawson City a real frontier town!
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Dawson City |
Dawson City |
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Dawson City |
The Aussies in Dawson |
The Aussies in Dawson |
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An interesting sign? |
Overlooking the Yukon river |
Heading to Top-of-the-World
Highway & US Customs! |
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To Top-of-the-World Highway... |
To Top-of-the-World Highway... |
To Top-of-the-World Highway... |
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Jenny driving, wild , wet & cold |
Jenny at the wheel, wild , wet & cold |
Jenny - wild , wet & cold |
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Jenny at the wheel, wild , wet & cold |
Gitanyow Indian totems
enroute to Prince Rupert |
Gitanyow Indian totems
enroute to Prince Rupert |
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A Bald Eagle (6ft wingspan)
in Port Hardy |
BC ferry transporting Bentleys
& crews from Prince Rupert
to Port Hardy |
BC ferry transporting Bentleys
& crews from Prince Rupert
to Port Hardy |
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The finish at Parliment House
Victoria BC |
The finish... |
The finish... |
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The finish... |
The finish... |
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Back into BC and the fur trading and
frontier towns of Fort St John, and Fort Nelson were
reached and then quickly forgotten as we headed ever
further North , in several 300 mile plus driving days.
The nights became days as the daylight hours now stretched
well into the night, and as each hotel was reached,
bed, food and drinks with our fellow Bentley drivers
seemed a blur as we were off again for another 8-9 hours
of driving, next to Whitehorse the first real Gold Rush
town, with a real frontier feel and Paddle Wheelers
on the river to boot.
Things were getting interesting now as this Bentley
adventure unfolded, we were now in the Yukon, a huge
vast mainly unpopulated area of forests, lakes, mountains
and animals bigger than many counties. Its bears, caribu,
moose, goats, deer, wolves and eagles abound and outnumbered
Bentleys and drivers by a big margin. These animals
are not shy either as we encountered black and grizzly
bears on the road and were actually chased down the
road by two wolves who showed no fear of a WO going
at speed, we also carried "Bear Spray" in
case of attack, large cans of capsicum spray, fortunately
not tested at the optimum 15ft from an angry bear!
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This is Gerties Saloon in Whitehorse. The badge
is from the BDC of
Australia the oldest Bentley club in the world...
we think this is the most northerly an Aussie badge
has been? |
All the aussies crews |
Dawson City |
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Love!
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International friends with Bentleys |
Wet and cold again! |
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Wet and cold again! |
Finish |
Finish, Victoria |
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Lake Louise line dancing drivers |
The Cooks at Lake Loise |
The Cooks at Lake Loise |
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On the road again |
Jenny |
Gerdies group |
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Yukon, a heatwave... no jacket! |
Let's go home?
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On to Dawson City before crossing
the Yukon river by ferry, one of only two crossing points
in its near 2000mile length. The BDC of Australia boys
organized an Aussie night out at Diamond Tooth Lils
saloon and gambling hall, where dancing, wine, women
(ours) and song were the order of the night. Money was
gambled, lost and won, honky tonk pianos tinkled, grubby
bars served into the wee hours. The cowboy swing doors,
horses, unsealed streets and wooden buildings from the
late 1800s confirmed we were really in this Gold Rush
frontier town with our "modern" cars, and
reading a newspaper at midnight was easy...
Onwards to our northern most point, almost at the Artic
Circle as we drove the Top of the World Highway into
the USA and Alaska at Poker Creek 4127ft the most northerly
US land border with a population of 5. The fog and snow
climbing to the crossing needed the windscreen folded
down as visibility was down to just a few metres and
we were very conscious of big drops either side of the
road... never saw them but top of the world views we
are told!
On to Chicken, Alaska and its music festival, then Tok
and finally after a last 387 mile/623km days drive we
had made it to Anchorage. Wow the car and ourselves
had made it all the way from Australia, those last few
days on sometimes poor unsealed roads had been tough
on the car and its passengers, but we had made Anchorage,
Alaska in just 13 driving days. Now we just to get back!
No one can really describe the Alaskan
Glaciers, after several grey wet days a super cloudless
sky greeted us for a day on the ocean looking at these
awesome sights, huge icefields, culminating in ice cliffs
plunging into the ocean, whales, otters, seals in abundance
and icebergs small and large abound... its indescribable
and the drivers and navigators had an amazing day. Being
out of the drivers seat was short lived as at crack
of dawn we were off on the return leg... roadworks and
frost heaves, big cracks in Aussie are marked by very
small red flags, usually noticed after the springs bottom
out and the passenger returns to the car after a short
spell airborne, slow progress and the Cohen average
of 45 mph is hard to maintain. But Tok, Watson Lake,
and Bell II are duly achieved, the later a Heli ski
base with luxury cabins and a great chef with after
300 miles of tough mountain roads only enough beds for
half the group, the WOs were given exclusive use, quite
right of course, and the Derbys, etc, had a further
100 miles to go to find their hotel, as accommodation,
people and petrol are scarce round here. We had a WO
only party, lots of fun, Trevor Eastwood doing a fine
job of the Aussie speech, singing by the Bentley Boys
choir, music, guitars, a few prizes, even some good
Aussie red was found... A really good night.
Things were getting serious now, our cars had cracked
windscreens, lost oil, lost gauges, one modern car actually
had eleven punctures by this stage and we were all in
survival mode, only one WO had failed with terminal
engine issues, but the excellent support team had been
unable to fix 2-3 Derby cars and each day the trailer
seemed to have another resident.. Could the Aussies
all survive? Onward to the beautiful Prince Rupert and
a ferry ride of 15hrs down the fantastic coastline of
BC between the mainland and Vancouver Island, a great
new ship carrying all our cars and us in real comfort
at 25 mph, what a wonderful trip, passing the land very
close and seeing the Indian communities and the now
defunct Salmon canneries, along with the ever present
forestry, ocean coastline and mountain scenery. Two
years ago the previous ship saw land far too closely,
as it ran aground, hitting an island at full speed and
immediately sinking, fortunately with no loss of life,
or Bentleys, but strong rumours still abound about the
captain being pre-occupied with a female officer. Scandal
indeed.
So on land again the cars burbled, and the weary occupants
pressed on, heading south down Vancouver Island, now
on nice well sealed roads. Good hotels in Port Hardy,
Campell River, and Chemainus all hosted us, some amongst
the group found time for fishing, but for the WO boys
and girls the increase in people and traffic signaled
our trip was nearing its end. After a total distance
of 5000miles/8000kms we finally drove into Victoria
the capital city of British Columbia in bright sunshine
accompanied by CMP police motorcycle escorts and preceded
by a 1930s police car, we wound our way around the waterfront
and through the city to be welcomed at the magnificent
Parliament Buildings to a big crowd, music and sparkling
drinks...
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59.
Finish |
We had done it. A final night and
a final dinner at the World famous Empress Hotel to
conclude the tour. We had conquered the last great frontier,
at times it almost conquered us, it left us with a great
respect for the country, its pioneers, its roadbuilders
and finally the tour organizers David & Adele Cohen
for accepting the challenge to organise this the longest
official BDC international Tour ever held, and the first
ever in Canada or Alaska, what an adventure, thanks
indeed. When the cars and our own bodies are serviced
the Aussies are heading back to North America for a
"little" tour of Eastern USA this September,
it is certain we will not find the open roads and wilderness
we have just experienced... Once in a lifetime, that
truly was the last great frontier!
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